Halloumi hit the news this weekend, with reports of a possible shortage in supermarkets after an increase in demand from UK shoppers. “Cheesed off” puns abounded in the press; social media was up in arms – words such as “heartbroken” and “panic” made appearances.
The Cypriot cheese that grills – beloved for its salty taste, squeaky, meaty texture, and a barbecue friendliness afforded by its high melting point – has become a favourite among vegetarians and meat-eaters alike, with Waitrose reporting a 24% year-on-year rise in sales in October 2017. In the summer months, the nexus of cooking over coals and al-fresco dining, it is nothing short of essential.
But in recent weeks, no sooner have halloumi supplies been replenished than supermarkets seem to be out of stock again. Sainsbury’s and Tesco denied claims of a shortage, but Pittas – the UK’s main halloumi supplier – tells a different story, sending “emergency supplies” from Cyprus to stores that can’t wait for them to be shipped.
If rumours of the shortage are true, it is hardly surprising. In 2015, Greek-Cypriot halloumi and its Turkish counterpart hellim were granted PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status by the EU. Not only must cheese carrying this hallmark come from Cyprus but, in the traditional style, it should also be made predominantly from sheep’s and goat’s milk, which is produced in much smaller yields than cow’s milk.
Scientists at the Roslin Institute, University of Edinburgh (where Dolly the sheep was cloned), are helping Cypriot farmers find ways to increase their yields in the long run. In the meantime, try these for size.
Baked feta
Wrap a block of feta in foil with a handful of cherry tomatoes and thyme leaves, a pinch of dried chilli, the zest of a lemon and black pepper. Place on the barbecue for 10 minutes until soft. Eat with grilled pitta and salad.
Peppers
Blacken three red or yellow peppers on the barbecue, then peel, core and deseed. Make a dressing of 4 tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp cider vinegar, 1 tsp maple syrup, 1 tsp crushed coriander seeds, a handful each of fresh mint and coriander leaves, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Serve with vegetarian sausages.
Manouri
This Greek cheese also grills. Cook on the barbecue until it chars, then serve with grilled peaches or fresh watermelon, plenty of shredded fresh mint and dill, and a simple dressing of olive oil, lemon juice and chopped capers.
Charred potato salad
Put 500g cooked new potatoes on the barbecue until char lines develop all over. Make a dressing with 2 heaped tbsp each of plain yoghurt, mayonnaise and olive oil, 1 tbsp dijon mustard, salt, pepper and lots of chopped fresh tarragon leaves.
Cauliflower steak
Take a whole head of cauliflower and cut it into steaks 2.5cm thick. Brush with oil, sprinkle with salt and place on the barbecue for five minutes each side. Serve with salad and tahini sauce, made by whisking 4 tbsp tahini with the juice of a lemon, a splash each of ice-cold water and olive oil, one finely chopped garlic clove and seasoning.
