Notes on chocolate: beyond the bean

Ingenious makers are ensuring no part of the cacao fruit is wasted

The cacao fruit surrounds the cacao bean in the pod – nature’s bubblewrap. It often used to be discarded after the bean had been harvested, but now, like so many byproducts, people are starting to think, ‘What can we do with that?’ And what can be done with it is it can be made into juice or purée and from there into various other products (including jam).

A few years ago, cacao pulp juice became more available in the UK (you can buy it – Pacha de Cacao – from Cocoa Runners from £9.95 for two, although currently there’s a waiting list). The pulp has a tangy taste, described as being like lychee, pineapple or mango.

For a while Oenone Thomas of Cocoa Retreat had been thinking about how to incorporate it into chocolate and now she’s managed it by sourcing cocoa fruit pulp purée in some beautiful, superfresh-tasting Cacao Fruit Truffles, £6/40g. She’s paired the Ecuadorian purée with her 73% Peruvian Chuncho Urushayhua. They are very zesty and sharp and sweet at the same time. Not the sort of thing I could binge on, but almost like a palette cleanser at the end of a meal. They are really interesting and worth a try on your craft-chocolate journey. Let me know what you think.

I had a bit of a disappointing time testing chocolate this week with some choc that really didn’t come up to being written about. Luckily, I had a delicious bar of Solkiki 54% Brazil Nut Marañón, £8.50, to comfort me. Although technically a dark chocolate, it tastes like a creamy dark milk due to being stuffed full of ground brazil nuts. Talking of which, don’t brazil nuts look like tiny killer whales?

Follow Annalisa on Twitter @AnnalisaB

Contributor

Annalisa Barbieri

The GuardianTramp

Related Content

Article image
Notes on chocolate: London’s first bean-to-bar will put SE16 on the map
Sweet things are happening in southeast London, says Annalisa Barbieri

Annalisa Barbieri

16, Aug, 2020 @8:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: a Eurovision box of chocolate hits
There are no ‘nul points’ in this super selection

Annalisa Barbieri

30, Apr, 2023 @8:01 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: who knew about fibre in chocolate?
High-fibre choc won’t send your blood-sugar levels soaring the way the other stuff does, writes Annalisa Barbieri

Annalisa Barbieri

19, Feb, 2023 @9:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: pale and interesting
It’s often dismissed by aficionados, but these takes on white chocolate could convert the haters

Annalisa Barbieri

30, Jun, 2019 @5:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: Oxford’s local heroes
In town for a wedding and a little the worse for wear, Annalisa Barbieri looks for something sweet and soothing

Annalisa Barbieri

22, Sep, 2019 @5:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: Italy’s finest bar
Gianduia with its micro-ground Piedmontese hazelnuts is gorgeous, if pricey, says Annalisa Barbieri

Annalisa Barbieri

14, Jul, 2019 @5:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: dark mode activated
It’s time to explore small, dark bars that pack a cocoa punch

Annalisa Barbieri

10, Sep, 2023 @8:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: is this the best ever dark chocolate?
Superlatives come thick and fast in this column, but this time there’s no way round it. By Annalisa Barbieri

Annalisa Barbieri

10, Jul, 2022 @8:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: fantasy pick’n’mix selections
If you were packing your own dreamy little bag, what would go in it? By Annalisa Barbieri

Annalisa Barbieri

27, Oct, 2019 @9:00 AM

Article image
Notes on chocolate: tea and chocolate are a capital hit
London’s the place to sample this flavoursome combination

Annalisa Barbieri

20, Aug, 2023 @8:02 AM