Greggs has caused consternation by daring to open an outlet in the land of the Cornish pasty when its own pasties do not qualify for the famous food designation.
Bakers in Cornwall said they were sure any loyal Cornish person would shun a Greggs bake in favour of a true Cornish pasty but expressed concern that the chain’s buying power could threaten smaller producers.
Greggs, which has more than 1,700 stores throughout the UK, has opened a shop in Saltash, close to the border with Devon. It said it had created eight new jobs in the process.
Pasties can only be called Cornish if they include only beef, potato, swede or turnip, onion and seasoning. Greggs does not offer a Cornish pasty on its menu, instead selling what it calls its “take on this West Country classic” – a beef and vegetable pasty that includes carrots and peas.
“I don’t think many Cornish people would ever buy one of their pasties,” said Marion Symonds, who this week celebrated 30 years of pasty-making at Portreath Bakery on the north coast.
“But they do have bigger buying power than the smaller concerns. With the price of everything – flour, meat vegetables – going up, it is a worry,” said Symonds, a Cornish pasty ambassador who travels the world promoting the product.
Ruth Huxley, a spokeswoman for the Cornish Pasty Association (CPA), said that unless Greggs bought pasties from a producer with protected geographical indication (PGI) certification, or obtained PGI certification itself, it would not be able to sell products labelled as Cornish pasties.
Huxley said: “We are confident that the future of genuine Cornish pasties would not be compromised by a business selling other baked savouries.”
Cornish pasty production is big business in the land west of the Tamar. At least 120m pasties are made each year generating about £300m for Cornwall’s economy, according to the CPA. At least 2,000 people in the region work in pasty production.
As well as the ingredients, the association said true Cornish pasties have to be crimped and have to be produced in Cornwall.
Greggs issued a statement saying: “A new Greggs shop opened at Euro Garages Saltash, Callington Road. It is operated under a franchise agreement with Euro Garages and eight new jobs have been created.”
The company gave no details about whether it planned to advance further into Cornwall or whether it would sell its version of the pasty.
Many residents were unimpressed, expressing their disquiet on social media. Lee Stephens said: “Why in the name of Satan does our county need a Greggs? Why we would require Greggs down here. We have proper bakeries.”
