Greece’s debt crisis rumbles on, making it harder for locals to go on holiday. But with 27 million visitors predicted in 2017, the tourism industry has proved resilient. As a result, enterprising Greeks are throwing open their villas and apartments to holiday-makers, offering personalised tours, and launching travel start-ups, to help visitors gain more authentic experiences of the country.
Insiders’ destination tips
Jacoline Vinke, founder of Small Hotels in Greece, has travelled the country in search of the best affordable stays. A favourite is To The Garden (from €80 a night for a cottage), which she describes as “a peaceful eco-retreat hidden in the hills of Paros island, with three charming, self-catering cottages set among Mediterranean gardens. Jim Thomas and Irini Sklavounou are inspiring hosts who involve their guests in all sorts of activities, from gardening and cooking to woodcarving and jewellery design. It’s all done in a pleasantly informal manner, so don’t worry if you’re in a lazy frame of mind.”
For a low-key beach holiday, Vinke recommends Elafonissos, a small island 10 minutes by boat off the small south-east Peloponnese port of Pounta. “There’s a campsite (simoscamping.gr/en) where you can rent a two-person tent for €30 a night.”
Elena Papanicolaou of travel agency Fly Me to the Moon, recommends Kimolos, “a tiny volcanic island in the Cyclades, with thermal springs and sea caves inhabited by monk seals. It’s a short boat ride to Poliegos, a castaway island with magnificent beaches and a population of wild goats and rare birds.” She suggests staying at Milaki, a hotel in the port of Psathi (doubles from €70 B&B).
John Consolas owns cheap-but-chic Alice Inn (doubles from €65 B&B) in Athens. He recommends Gavdos, a tiny island off the southern coast of Crete. “Gavdos has a cult following of travellers who seek the simpler things in life. Away from the package tours and resorts of Crete, it’s a step back in time. Ferry connections can be fraught, but this adds to the charmed isolation,” says Consolas. His family runs the basic but idyllic Gavdos Studios (doubles from €65 B&B).
He also recommends Anafi island, in the Cyclades. “It’s the mirror image of nearby and oversubscribed Santorini,” he says. “Unlike most places in Greece, the local community encourages free camping so just grab a tent and find yourself a patch of sand.”
Affordable Athens
For an apartment stay with concierge services, check into Live in Athens (apartments from €55 a night), a selection of 11 colourful flats in various sizes, all within a stroll of the main attractions.
Most fish tavernas are pricy, but not Atlantikos in Psirri, says Live in Athens’s Varnavas Filippou. “It’s unpretentious and run by lovely people. Ask for the fish sandwich (only €4), if you are on the go.” For low-priced cocktails (€5), Filippou favours Cantina Social: “Ask for Christos – he will welcome you with vodka and pineapple shots.”
If you’re interested in antiquity, a €30 (concessions €15) combination ticket (odysseus.culture.gr) gets you into 11 archaeological sites in Athens, including the Parthenon. It’s valid for five days. Off-peak tickets are discounted by 50%.
For cheap entertainment, “check out the breakdancers in Syntagma Square in the evenings,” says John Consolas. “Or buy a beer from the kiosk and hang out in the charming squat-cum-community garden on Navarinou Street in Exarchia (the Athenian version of New York’s Washington Square in its heyday).”
“Use local guides for authentic experiences,” says Jacoline Vinke. Dopios is a great way to meet locals offering tours, from street art to food markets.
Eating out
Souvlaki is the ultimate Greek street food and a wrap with the works costs just €1.50-€2 at Kostas Souvlaki (5 Pendelis St, Syntagma, +30 210 322 8502) in downtown Athens, where Kostas and Poppy grill, garnish, and wrap spicy skewers in pillows of pitta in perfect synchronicity. Wash it down with a Fix beer and you’ll still have change from €5. Be quick – they usually sell out by 2.30pm.
For top Athenian farmers’ markets (laiki), selling seasonal produce for a song, try the Friday one on Matrozou Street in Koukaki and the Saturday one on Kallidromiou Street in Exarchia. In the sticks, look out for pick-up trucks piled high with tomatoes, grapes and watermelons – yours for a couple of euros per kilo.
Filippou suggests hitting the local bakery for spinach and feta pies and heading to Filopappou Hill for a picnic with Parthenon views. A little further afield, Akadimias Platonos park is where Plato had his peripatetic philosophy school. It’s a peaceful spot for an impromptu symposium and the archaeological site is free. Nearby, the Cooperative Café at Plato’s Academy (Monastiriou 140) serves pay-what-you-can lunch and fairtrade coffee – proceeds support the homeless and unemployed.
Travel tips
To travel to the islands, the older, conventional ferries (such as Blue Star and Anek) are considerably cheaper than hydrofoils and high speed boats.
Sailing holidays can be surprisingly cheap for island-hopping. Incrediblue, and a selection of other websites, match would-be sailors with yacht owners (from £24pppn for an eight-berth sailboat).
For large groups, villa rentals are better value than hotels. Book through Blue Villas and a percentage of the rent goes to Emfasis, a charity that helps the homeless and refugees. Thetis Villa on Paros sleeps six, from €195 a day.
Seaside lodgings are pricier than inland accommodation, but many campsites have prime waterfront locations. For camping, Coralli Camping on Serifos charges €6pppn (plus €4 for the tent) and under-12s stay free. Check out greececamping.gr for a full site list.
