In a nutshell
A large, engrossing collection of football exhibits and memorabilia over four floors in Manchester city centre, from shirts worn by greats such as Pelé, Stanley Matthews and Diego Maradona (the one he was wearing when he scored that goal against England at the 1986 World Cup), to a giant homoerotic portrait of Eric Cantona (with Becks and the Neville brothers sitting at his feet like adoring disciples) and the ball used in the 1966 World Cup final (a happier day for England).
Fun fact
The Jules Rimet trophy was stolen prior to the 1966 World Cup, only to be discovered by Pickles the dog. For fear of losing the trophy again, the FA commissioned a replica and used it for all official functions until 1970. It is now on display at the museum, along with Pickles’ collar and medals (one from the National Canine Defence League, the other from the World Cup Collectors Club). Pickles was adopted as the museum’s mascot in 2014.
Best things about it
It’s extremely well-curated, so there’s a penalty shootout zone and other fun stuff for kids that is hands (and feet) on, but there are also in-depth exhibits for bigger kids on subjects such as the history of the World Cup and the Munich air disaster. My favourite was the exhibition of photographs by Stuart Roy Clarke (runs until March 2019), who has been documenting British football for 30 years. It’s a work of art, beautifully capturing the passion for football that so many supporters feel but often find hard to express.
Over the summer it is running loads of World Cup-themed events and exhibitions, including “official Panini sticker swap sessions” (every Saturday and Sunday, noon– 2pm).
What about lunch?
There is branch of the Ryan Giggs and Gary Neville-owned Cafe Football inside the museum. Some wag has run riot with the menu, which includes The ’66 and Special One burgers (from £11.50) and a Mara Doner pizza (£14) – with shredded lamb, red onions and mint aioli – that sounds so contrived it was invented purely for the pun of it. Sandwiches include the Nicky Butty (a club sandwich, £12) and veggie options feature the Clean Sheet (£10) … back of the net! The unhealthy-sounding kids’ menu (£8 for a main, dessert and soft drink) is made up of the usual fast-food/sugary suspects – and even includes the option of a visit to the sweet shop.
Exit through the giftshop?
Yes, but there’s some interesting stuff among all the football books and miniature replica trophies – nostalgic games such as Subbuteo, and Stanley Chow prints of iconic players. For those with deeper pockets, there are framed, signed shirts, boots and gloves from famous former players.
Getting there
It’s next door to Victoria station, hub of the Greater Manchester tram network and departure point for trains across the north of England. And it’s a 20-minute walk or short tram ride from Manchester Piccadilly station.
Value for money
Absolutely – admission is free, though (suggested £3pp) donations are welcome. The optional £6 package allows visitors to get their photographs taken with FA Cup and Premier League replica trophies and have a go on two of the half a dozen interactives, such as the penalty shootout – at the old Wembley goalposts no less – or the Match of the Day commentary challenge. A £25 family day pass allows unlimited access to all the interactive exhibits.
Opening hours
From 10am to 5pm every day except Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Year’s Day.
Verdict
9/10. There’s enough to keep fans absorbed for half a day or longer; I went with my grown-up godson and 2½ hours wasn’t nearly long enough for us. There’s also enough of historical interest for the casual browser but non-fans beware: as with the game itself, you may wonder what all the fuss is about.
