In a nutshell
In the middle of St Albans, one of the UK’s smallest cities, is this unintentionally eccentric new museum, part funded by the local community who helped bring it to life. The building was designed as a grand courthouse and its Georgian splendour has been restored to house a curious range of galleries that chart the most famous and the lesser-known parts of the area’s history (from its origins as Roman Verulamium to its role in the printing industry), alongside modern art and exhibits. Friendly and plentiful staff help bring the building’s past to life, showing visitors round the old cells or whipping up mock trials in the courtroom, which doubles as a cafe.
Fun facts
The Wars of the Roses began in St Albans and saw fighting fill the narrow streets in 1455. One of its protagonists, the Duke of York, is not the Grand Old Duke of York but the man who inspired ROYGBIV mnemonic (“Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain”).
The founder of golf’s Ryder Cup, Samuel Ryder, was an entrepreneur who made his fortune as a merchant and came up with the idea of selling penny packets of seeds from his home in St Albans in the 1890s.
Best thing(s) about it
Being able to stand (and accuse) in the docks seemed the big ticket, though there were plenty of kids trying to identify famous local faces from the pictures lining the stairs, including Boudicca and Stephen Hawking. The St Albans on Demand gallery shows exhibits that change according to local request, which may explain why it currently includes the head and upper body of half a taxidermy lion, otherwise known as Arthur Lion (geddit?) and a 19th-century teacup designed for resting moustaches on.
The viewing corridor that overlooks the higgledy-piggledy 14th-century buildings of French Row is testament to the clever restoration architecture, which is every bit as appealing as the museum’s content. The programme of events, which incorporates calligraphy and virtual-reality workshops, looks like a good way to combine activity and cultural engagement.
What about lunch?
Affordable salads and quiches, plus the now-ubiquitous kid’s lunchbox option, are available from around a fiver and can be eaten in the outdoor square patio that opens onto the city’s main shopping thoroughfare or in the courtroom cafe. Evening visitors (for the Museum Lates which will start soon) can order wine, too.
Exit through the gift shop?
The main foyer incorporates a shop selling small mementos and some Roman paraphernalia. Replica soldier’s helmets and museum-branded keyrings might draw their eye but it’s easy to avoid and not pitched cynically at kids.
Getting there
St Albans is 20 minutes from London St Pancras on the Thameslink train, which runs north-south between Bedford and Brighton.
Value for money?
It’s free, so yes, but you couldn’t spend all day here. Combine it with a visit to the historic cathedral, a five-minute walk away, and the Roman ruins (and another museum) in Verulamium Park – there are ice-cream vans en route if bribery is required.
Opening hours
Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm, Sunday midday-5pm.
Verdict
8/10. This accessible take on what could be quite stuffy subjects recognises where kids’ hearts (and attention spans) lie. A reason for locals to feel proud.
