Rising star: Aitor Throup, designer

Aitor Throup, designer

Though born in Buenos Aires, Throup moved to Burnley aged 11. 'I wouldn't have been a menswear designer if I hadn't moved there,' he says. He's influenced by football hooligan style, particularly labels such as CP Company and Stone Island.

This interest informed Throup's MA show at the Royal College of Art, entitled When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods. The clothes tell the story of hooligans committing a racist attack before converting to Hinduism. A narrative approach is essential to Throup. 'I justify everything in my work,' he says. 'It's not that I hate decorative design - I just can't do it.'

Throup crusades against the tyranny of fashion. 'I have a real disrespect for the industry,' he says. 'I think the idea of seasons controls creativity.'

But fashion loves him. His streetwear designs have won competitions for Umbro and Levi's, and he works for Evisu. CP Company reps even flew over to see his graduate collection.

Throup also won Collection of the Year and the i-D Styling Award at the Diesel-sponsored ITS talent search. ITS project director Barbara Franchin calls him 'an exceptionally talented fashion designer, and also an artist. His collection unanimously conquered the jury.'



Lauren Cochrane

The GuardianTramp

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