What's so special about a Stradivarius?

Antonio Stradivari's violins are so famous they make the news when they get stolen. But are they really worth the steep price tag? I found out when I took one for a bluegrass test drive ...

It's the joke that no violinist can avoid. You'll be just opening your case as some wag slides past with a grin and the inevitable question: "Is that a Stradivarius?" Disguising your inner groan, the accepted response is to shake your head wistfully, and smile back "I wish!" Well, today, the joke is over. Not because I've stabbed the well-meaning punter in the neck with my bowtip. But because the instrument I am carrying is actually, incredibly, a Strad.

The Ashmolean Museum in Oxford is currently hosting the first exhibition of Stradivari's instruments to be shown in the UK and one of the master craftsman's exceedingly rare violins is in my extremely nervous hands. The Beechback, as this particular example is known, is the only one of the instruments that is not currently in a climate-controlled Perspex case, and after being vetted by the insurance companies – you have to have a Grade 8 qualification at least to play this violin (and, I presume, no history of pyromania) – I have been invited to give it a go.

Emma John learns to play the stradivarius
Raising the tone … Emma John with the Absentees. Photograph: Justin Doherty Photograph: Justin Doherty

You often hear some scepticism, even among musicians, about whether the violins made by Antonio Stradivari are really worth their price tag. The 17th-century luthier's name has become such shorthand for "expensive violin" that the names of the other great violin makers – Nicolo Amati, Francesco Ruggieri, Giuseppe Guarneri – will be barely recognisable to anyone but aficionados. That's why stolen Strads – such as the one returned to soloist Min-Jin Kym last week – still make the news.

The Beechback isn't particularly showy. Unlike some of the instruments in the exhibition, which are highly decorated, it has a simple, dark exterior. In fact, sitting in its fairly ordinary violin case, you might not take it for one of the rarest musical instruments in the world, were it not for the sharp-eyed security guard following it around. I pick it up to tune the strings and the first sound I make as I drag the bow across the strings is so loud I pull up, shocked and a little rattled. It's the same feeling you'd get if you'd driven a Mazda all your life, then stepped into a Ferrari and accidentally floored it.

A few tentative scales meet with a rich, sweet sound that my own playing surely does not merit. When I was learning classical violin, teachers would harp on about "tone", the elusive quality that required you to spend hours of practice attempting to coax warm sounds from your instrument. The Beechback doesn't seem to need any effort. The noise it creates is infinitely nicer than anything I have produced on my own instrument to date – sharp edges are smoothed, rasps mellowed. I realise there are sounds my own fiddle makes that I've never noticed before – superflous soundwaves, barely audible hisses of interference – that are only noticeable now, in their absence.

For my road test, I've chosen an unaccompanied Bach Partita in D minor – something I haven't played since I was a teenager, when solo recitals were a regular and terrifying part of my life. I've always been a nervous performer; once I was so jumpy that, as I put my violin up to my neck to play, I let go and tossed it over my shoulder. This is not a part of my playing history I have shared with the Ashmolean.

A group of exhibition-goers has seen me handling the violin, and gathered, unprompted, in front of me. Often the adrenalin rush of playing for an audience has been my downfall, but the Beechback's sound has an interesting side-effect – under the fingers of my left hand, the violin feels literally easier to play. There may be some technical considerations here – it could be that the action on the fingerboard is a little lower than the violin I play, or that the strings are made of a superior gut, making them softer to press down on. But mostly, I suspect, this is the mystical effect of transference. The sound I hear is so smooth that I sense it as something tangible in the wood itself.

Still, it's the power that you keep coming back to. I feel like I have an actual concert hall under my chin. And while I don't have an orchestra to accompany me in a grand romantic concerto, I have somehow persuaded the Absentees, one of the UK's finest bluegrass bands, to join me at the museum, and we run through a couple of old American hillbilly tunes. It is surely a first for the Beechback, unless Nigel Kennedy's got in there first, and it rises supreme above even the banjo's noisy jangling. Afterwards, a little old lady asks me very sweetly if I'm a professional musician. Not even close – but for a moment, thanks to the Strad, I felt like one.

Contributor

Emma John

The GuardianTramp

Related Content

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about holes | Peter Kimpton

Chasms to caves, plugholes to sinkholes, mind your gap and fill this weeks' hungry void with your nominations, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

27, Feb, 2014 @10:00 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about the coast | Peter Kimpton
Crashing surf, rocky cliffs or serene sands, suggest songs in those fertile or mysterious places where land meets sea, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

31, Jul, 2014 @9:00 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about crowns - results
Krauss to Kestner, Costello to Collective Soul, RR regular takeitawayGuru strides regally across many a kingdom to put a special Handel on last week’s topic

takeitawayGuru

19, Nov, 2015 @12:00 PM

Article image
What shall we write about next?
Are there any subjects you’d like to see our writers tackle on the Guardian Music blog? Post your suggestions here – and the best ideas will get commissioned in the coming days

Adam Boult

04, Mar, 2014 @1:13 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about ears and hearing | Peter Kimpton
Keep your ears to the ground and tune into all frequencies for music that makes special mention of the act of listening, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

07, Aug, 2014 @9:00 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about cleansing | Peter Kimpton

Washing to brushing, soaking to buffing, let's dust off and polish up a selection of songs that seek to purify object, body or mind, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

20, Mar, 2014 @10:00 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about reptiles | Peter Kimpton

Crocs to cobras, mambas to cottonmouths, komodos to geckos – let's get snappy and slide in some song suggestions, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

13, Mar, 2014 @10:00 PM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about faces and facial expressions | Peter Kimpton

Moody or mischievous, frowning or furtive, let's face the music with songs that mention facial features and feelings shown, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

20, Feb, 2014 @10:00 PM

Article image
Playing bluegrass on a Stradivarius - video

Amateur violinist Emma John had never played a Stradivarius before, and she was pretty sure the instrument had never played bluegrass either …

Justin Doherty

06, Aug, 2013 @9:28 AM

Article image
Readers recommend: songs about buses

Queue calmly or run like crazy to catch it, swipe your pass or tear a ticket, and join us on a journey of sounds and surprises, says Peter Kimpton

Peter Kimpton

02, Jan, 2014 @10:00 PM