I think most of us feel that we ought to wheel out a special wine at Christmas, or at least splash out a bit more than we normally do. But if you’re more used to spending £5-10 than £10-15, what should it be?
The danger is going for something based on its reputation, rather than its quality, and that you may not even enjoy. In that category, I would put barolo and barbaresco (both often too woody and stripped of fruit), saint-émilion (there’s better bordeaux out there, and at a much keener price) and that habitual culprit, big-name champagne, which, despite the much-touted discounts, still costs more than you’d dream of spending on a bottle of wine. This applies even to the discounters, whose top wines are sometimes not significantly cheaper than those at an indie and almost always not as good, while if you’re going to buy more expensive wines at a supermarket, you’re generally better off opting for their own-label bottlings such as the gold medal-winning amarone from Morrisons in today’s pick.
There are exceptions, though. I used to warn against buying châteauneuf-du-pape on the grounds that it wasn’t much better than a decent côtes du rhône, but it’s one of the few wines whose quality has improved while its price has remained reasonably stable. (At £36, the 14.5% Marks & Spencer magnum I mentioned in my gift recommendations last month is a really decent buy.) The same applies to sauternes and chablis – the latter is pretty consistently reliable, even if the price has crept up a quid or two (the Brocard chablis in my pick this week is a good case in point). Nonetheless, it’s worth looking out for special offers such as Waitrose’s current “Fine Wines at £10” selection which I mentioned last week. (In addition to the wines I recommended then, I also like the 14.5% Les Clos du Matin Pouilly-Fumé 2020, which is a great buy at a tenner.) The Co-op also has a good pouilly-fumé, Domaine Les Chaumes 2020 (14.5%) at £13.75. Sauvignon still goes down well, too, and is surprisingly good with smoked salmon.
When choosing your Christmas wine, I definitely wouldn’t want you to forget the independents, though. Their strength is that they stock wines such as jurançon sec that the supermarkets regard as too hard to sell, as well as wines in small quantities, such as the fabulous Pasotismo Moristel below) made by a young British couple in Spain. There’s still time to order online, so do include them in your shopping plans.
Six special wines to drink over Christmas
Pasotismo Moristel 76 2020 £17.95 Tanners, paso-primero.com, 13.5%. Gloriously bright and fruity, this unusual Spanish red from a rare grape variety is one of the most joyous wines I’ve tasted this year.
Morrisons The Best Amarone 2017 £14 (on offer), 14.5%. There’s something splendidly festive about amarone, and this lush, gold medal-winning example is a bargain. Perfect for the stilton.
Jurançon Sec L’Estela 2020 £12.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants, £13.95 Caviste, 13.5%. A really appealing, crisp white, made from the obscure gros manseng, petit manseng and petit courbu, that ticks the box for seafood and salads.
Domaines Brocard Chablis 2019 £90 for six Marks & Spencer online (ie, £15 a bottle), 12.5%. Classic chablis made by the ever-reliable Brocard family from organically grown vines. Given an extra year’s ageing, too, so a bit of a bargain.
Château Montaiguillon Montagne Saint-Émilion 2017 £19.50 (or £17.50 by the case) Lea & Sandeman, 13.5%. This deliciously supple wine from one of the Saint-Émilion villages is streets better than any you’ll find at a supermarket. Perfect for roast beef.
Ulysse Sauternes Bordeaux £18 The Wine Society, 14%. This simply sensational sauternes is, unusually, a blend of three vintages (2014, 2015 and 2016) and described by buyer Tim Sykes as “the best-value wine I have come across in my 10 years as a Wine Society buyer”. Snap it up, if there’s any left.
• For more by Fiona Beckett, go to matchingfoodandwine.com
