Country diary: strawberry fields, gone for ever

St Dominic, Tamar valley: Land that once produced highly prized outdoor strawberries is now home to mature conifers and neglected daffodils

Spring advances fastest on the southern edge of this parish, in sight of the tidal river at Halton Quay. The 1840 tithe map shows Brentswood and Halton Wood as oak coppice, but from 1880 until 1914 trees were “ripped” (often with dynamite) to grow some of the earliest outdoor strawberries in the country, commanding high prices at Covent Garden in London and in northern markets.

These “adret” slopes, facing south with a warm microclimate, continued to be worked labour-intensively until the 1960s, growing an intricate patchwork of flowers and soft fruit interspersed with sweet cherries grafted on to tall rootstock. Soil creep was partly counteracted by crops grown diagonally across the vertiginous slopes, and slumped earth was winched back uphill. The steepest land is now engulfed in mature conifers, zigzagged with graded tracks for accessing pheasant shoots; no shooting parties this year because of lockdown, but a few escaped stray cocks run across the adjoining ground of trampled flattened soil, which is littered with husks of maize, planted as shelter and food for these managed game birds.

Close to the narrow lane, neglected daffodils dazzle in the afternoon sun. Flopped blooms, already faded and past their pick-by dates, sprawl among brassy celandines on the roadside bank where they were thrown out in favour of newer sorts. Upslope, clumps and rows grow among the weeds, rough grass and cut eucalyptus bushes, successors to the shelter belts of pittosporum, previously popular for florists’ foliage.

At the old hedgebank, which separates this relatively warm land from more exposed agricultural fields, drifts of primrose spread downhill across this former cultivated market garden, and hardy narcissus varieties like the slender ‘Princeps’ and long-stemmed, fragrant jonquil naturalise among the wild arum, bluebells and ivy. Shards of china, revealed by burrowing rabbits, recall former intensive cultivation when this early land was fertilised with smelly “dock dung” (street sweepings including human waste, brought upriver on barges from Devonport).

Today, a tracked earth mover consigns cut-off, unwanted pittosporum trunks to a bonfire; grey billowing smoke blends with leafless, wintry trees across the little tributary – Hornifast Wood, facing north beneath Mount Ararat – all in the cold shade apart from the topmost, lichen-covered branches.

• Country Diary is on Twitter at @gdncountrydiary

Contributor

Virginia Spiers

The GuardianTramp

Related Content

Article image
Country diary: copious apple blossom is at its best, but short-lived
St Dominic, Tamar Valley: The full bloom sadly coincides with April’s withering cold and dearth of pollinators

Virginia Spiers

20, May, 2021 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: spring pilgrimage to an uncanny bluebell wood
Wrekin Forest, Shropshire: Blue still shimmers across Black Hayes’ secret valley slopes, but few areas are as lush as usual

Paul Evans

02, May, 2019 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: a historic venue to discuss the future of forestry
Restormel and Boconnoc, Cornwall: Near the castle, in a walled garden, the duchy’s head forester discusses the vale of ‘natural capital’, before a visit to an SSSI-designated woodland

Virginia Spiers

30, May, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: ground flora race to bloom before the tree canopy fills in
Egglestone, Teesdale: Wood sorrel may appear vulnerable, but it is a tenacious little plant with a smart survival strategy

Phil Gates

01, May, 2019 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: wild garlic makes the greenwood greener
Wenlock Edge, Shropshire: this is mythologised woodland, a secular sacred place, a hunting ground and a sanctuary

Paul Evans

14, Mar, 2018 @5:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: abundant apples are ready for juicing
St Dominic, Tamar Valley: A warm summer means there are baskets of fruit perfect for pressing in my sister and brother-in-law’s orchard

Virginia Spiers

19, Sep, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: delicate flowers stand firm on precipitous stony slopes
Treligga, Cornwall: The first spring squills are massing near the coastal path, among the sea thrift and bladder campion

Virginia Spiers

16, May, 2019 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: where are the violets?
Wenlock Edge, Shropshire: These longed-for heralds of spring would make a wild morning complete

Paul Evans

25, Mar, 2021 @5:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: bog bean adventures
New Forest: Janet Elizabeth Case braved treacherous sink holes and snagging briars to see these enchanting flowers 80 years ago

Graham Long

14, May, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: dazzled by the common's treasure
Biggleswade Common, Bedfordshire: Sunseeking yellow buttercups add to the floral riches of the meadows

Derek Niemann

24, May, 2018 @4:30 AM