Country diary: autumn arrives in the estuary

Aberdyfi, Gwynedd: As the season shifts, oystercatchers gather on the foreshore, and new colours dominate the landscape

Looking across the estuary from the hills above Aberdyfi, the uncertain morning light gave both sea and sky the diffuse grey of long-abandoned pewter. Behind me, the broken slope of the hillside carried an expanse of bracken fronds – colouring now into autumn. Stirred in the sharpening breeze from the east, they fell into patterns echoing the movement of the river surface below me. The tide had just begun to ebb, with streamers of foam starting to build across the mouth of the Afon Dyfi as increasing volumes of water began to sluice energetically seawards.

The Afon Dyfi with Ynyslas beyond
The Afon Dyfi with Ynyslas beyond. Photograph: John Gilbey

Far to the south the notched cliffs of Ceredigion retreated into the coastal murk, while closer at hand the dunes of Ynyslas defined the southern bank of the Dyfi. Caught in a dynamic balance of erosion and deposition, the pattern of dunes is edged to seaward with a ridge of rounded cobbles – visible as a grey band even from here, a mile or so distant. Beyond the sand dunes the great expanse of Cors Fochno, an impressive raised peat bog with its core still virtually wild, brought further diversity of colour and texture to the landscape. A line of silver, oddly straight in this almost fractal scene, marked the engineered course of the Afon Leri across the edge of the mire.

The track across the hillside, edged with gorse flowers and a few late foxgloves, took me down towards the town, finally reached by a half-remembered path dropping between high hedges. The day had begun to warm, burning away the earlier mist and bringing solid colour to the landscape. Inland, the former mere suggestion of high ground resolved into familiar hills, framed by a deepening blue sky and fans of high white cloud.

The track towards Aberdyfi
The track towards Aberdyfi. Photograph: John Gilbey

As I headed eastwards towards Machynlleth, sunlight reflected sharply from the choppy waters of the Dyfi, throwing into silhouette a good-sized flock of oystercatchers strung out along the widening foreshore. I lost count at 50, which was perhaps a quarter of the group, and was glad to note that this throng included a number of paler, slightly scruffy, juvenile birds. A healthy presence, but the gathering of flocks in the estuary is a sign of approaching autumn that can no longer be ignored.


John Gilbey

The GuardianTramp

Related Content

Article image
Country diary: a rocky road to a view of the estuary
Afon Mawddach, Gwynedd: The route seems unreasonably steep, and in my memory the lane was much shorter

John Gilbey

06, Sep, 2021 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: walking the wild expanse of Teifi Marshes
Aberteifi/Cardigan, Ceredigion: Ducks doze on the mud-banks, while Canada geese argumentatively cruise the creeks of the main channel

John Gilbey

27, Aug, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: the hedgerows are transformed, as if by magic
Wenlock Edge, Shropshire: They are common, we are hedged in by them and yet the hawthorn has such a powerful link with imaginations of the past

Paul Evans

12, Sep, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: wildlife-sustaining bramble hedges need our protection
Claxton, Norfolk: A conservation group is calling for legal restrictions covering many hedgerow species to be extended to bramble, ivy and honeysuckle

Mark Cocker

06, Oct, 2020 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: shadows reveal a road less travelled in recent times
Kingswood, Northumberland: This track, a sunken green line much older than the motor-era road, hugs the hillside at an angle more suitable for horse and cart

Susie White

29, Sep, 2018 @1:13 PM

Article image
Country diary: my baby and I move through different landscapes
Airedale, West Yorkshire: My six-week-old daughter still can’t see very well, but her other senses are sharper than an adult’s

Richard Smyth

20, Oct, 2018 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: an exhalation in the alder carr
Purwell Ninesprings, Hertfordshire: I’m often drawn back to this swampy woodland in search of solace and inspiration

Nic Wilson

09, Oct, 2020 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: going with the flow of the dipper's song
Wye Dale, Derbyshire: By one of the bridges, two dippers have built a nest: a football-sized ball of moss layered with a sense of time and season

Mark Cocker

16, Mar, 2021 @5:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: a valley awash with sound
Tal-y-bont, Ceredigion: Along the banks of the boulder-strewn river, a subtle aural landscape emerges

John Gilbey

05, Jul, 2021 @4:30 AM

Article image
Country diary: a walk to the estuary is a real hoot
Talsarnau, Gwynedd: The brindled presence of a sleeping tawny owl brings back childhood memories

Jim Perrin

14, Nov, 2020 @5:30 AM