Here’s a tortoise I found crossing the Albanian border. It should be that easy for all of us | Lea Ypi

Meandering across an artificial line that divides humanity, the tortoise had a lot to teach my children – and me

This undocumented tortoise was spotted crossing the land border between Albania and Greece one early morning in August, shortly after we had emerged from a long queue to have our passports stamped.

“Here,” I had been telling my children, “where you see the red flag with the eagle, is Albania. And over there,” I added, pointing at the other flag, blue with white stripes, a few hundred metres in the distance, “is Greece.”

“But where are we now?”, the six-year-old asked. The tortoise was slowly trailing behind us, through what is sometimes referred to as terra nullius, a portion of territory that does not belong to any state and that usually demarcates two bordering jurisdictions.

During Albania’s 45 years of communist rule, any citizen caught imitating the actions of this tortoise would have been shot. The stretch of dividing land was guarded by soldiers on both sides, while vehicles crossing the border were few and far between. Now, the landscape offers a strange mix of wildlife and civilisation, a synthesis of nature and artifice. The chirping sound of crickets is interrupted by cars braking suddenly at the respective checkpoints. Outside the marked paths, the land is barren and the vegetation unattended. We were surrounded by mountains, the same ones having different names on the different sides of the border.

In modern political thought, the concept of terra nullius, ie a piece of land that does not have a legal owner, was crucial to the defence of colonialism. Territorial sovereignty was justified by invoking the need for the efficient use of land to which it was presumed that nobody had previously laid a claim. “If within a territory of a people there is any deserted or unproductive soil,” Hugo Grotius, the 17th-century Dutch founding father of international law, wrote, “it is a right of foreigners to take possession of such land.” Reflecting on the origins of private property, the Genevan philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau wrote that the first person who enclosed a plot of land and said “this is mine” – and found people “simple” enough to believe this account – was the true founder of civil society. Something similar could be said for state territory.

“But where is the tortoise from?,” my six-year-old asked. “Where is she going? Is she Greek or Albanian?”

“Tortoises don’t have countries,” I replied. “They live in the state of nature.”

The justification for political authority, including the right of states to police their borders, lies in its presumed superiority over the animal kingdom. In the state of nature, Thomas Hobbes explained, competition for scarce resources, and the war of all against all, makes even the strongest fear for their life. The state, and only the state, is capable of guaranteeing true rights-based freedom, as opposed to the anarchy of nature.

I used to find this argument plausible but have become increasingly sceptical of it. A few weeks after this photo was taken, 92 migrants were rescued on the northern border between Greece and Turkey. They were all naked and many bore bodily injuries. It is not clear how they lost their clothes, but Greece blamed the Turkish authorities. The UN called for a “full investigation” and decried “such cruel and degrading treatment”. Suddenly, the rules made up by states seemed even crueller than the so-called laws of nature.

Around the same time, undocumented Albanians travelling to Britain were the subject of a vicious verbal attack by the home secretary, Suella Braverman. They were labelled as invaders, even though what they had done was ultimately no different from the tortoise: crossing a border. But we have been taught to consider the mere act of movement over an artificial boundary some kind of crime because we have accepted as natural deeply unnatural political conventions.

And so I have kept returning to this photo, of a tortoise who seemed so at home in a world without passports.

  • Lea Ypi is a professor in political theory at the London School of Economics, and the author of Free: Coming of Age at the End of History, published by Allen Lane

  • Do you have an opinion on the issues raised in this article? If you would like to submit a response of up to 300 words by email to be considered for publication in our letters section, please click here.

Contributor

Lea Ypi

The GuardianTramp

Related Content

Article image
We Albanians are just the latest scapegoats for Britain’s failing ideological project | Lea Ypi
Far from being ‘invaders’, Albanians in Britain are contributing to UK society, says Lea Ypi, professor in political theory at LSE

Lea Ypi

04, Nov, 2022 @1:46 PM

Article image
With its heavy-handed response to the border crisis, Europe is making a bad situation worse | Daniel Trilling
Turkey’s decision not to stop refugees crossing its borders is going to force European politicians to finally face the issue, says author Daniel Trilling

Daniel Trilling

06, Mar, 2020 @1:51 PM

Article image
Gary Lineker spoke his mind. Now we should too: fate could have put any one of us in those migrant boats | Jonathan Freedland
The BBC presenter’s sidelining will delight ministers eager for a distraction. The last thing they want is for us to see refugees as real people, says Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland

Jonathan Freedland

10, Mar, 2023 @5:16 PM

Article image
So the Greece deportations are going ‘smoothly’? Take a closer look | Aspostolis Fotiadis
The first refugees have been returned under the EU-Turkey deal, and there are already concerns about coercion and force being used

Apostolis Fotiadis

04, Apr, 2016 @3:50 PM

Article image
Greece’s refugee plan is inhumane and doomed to fail. The EU must step in | Apostolis Fotiadis
The government wants to create massive detention centres, but this is being resisted by locals and refugees alike, says Apostolis Fotiadis, a journalist based in Athens

Apostolis Fotiadis

16, Feb, 2020 @1:35 PM

Article image
Albanian PM hits out at Braverman over ‘disgraceful’ comments on migrants
Edi Rama says home secretary’s references to ‘Albanian criminals’ could themselves be considered a crime

Alexandra Topping

23, Mar, 2023 @10:58 AM

Article image
Europe is facing a potential crisis in the Balkans. It has to act soon | Ivan Krastev
The promise of EU membership for states in the region is welcome, but the influence of Russia, China and Turkey could create instability, says Ivan Krastev, chairman of the Sofia-based Centre for Liberal Strategies

Ivan Krastev

21, Feb, 2018 @6:00 AM

Article image
Greece fears border standoff with Turkey over migrants' return
Turkish foreign minister says migrants may return to frontier as countries emerge from lockdowns

Helena Smith in Athens

26, May, 2020 @10:43 AM

Article image
‘A moment in history’: making a perilous sea-crossing with refugees – photo essay
Ahead of a UK exhibition of her photo series Journey in the Death Boat, Güliz Vural describes travelling with Syrians being smuggled to Greece from Turkey

Amie Ferris-Rotman and Isabel Choat

07, Nov, 2021 @3:00 PM

Article image
Clashes as thousands gather at Turkish border to enter Greece
EU border agency on ‘high alert’ as Turkish president Erdoğan keeps crossings open

Daniel Boffey in Brussels

01, Mar, 2020 @5:28 PM