My family were refugees to the UK. My mum spoke no English and had only a small income from sewing blouses. My little brother and I relied on school lunches but came home to simple but gloriously delicious meals. The sweet smell of rice steaming alongside fried shallots and garlic can turn your appetite into a ferocious monster. My mum has the Vietnamese way of never forgetting to balance sweetness, savoury, tanginess and freshness. These meals have always been happy and I still eat like this.
Having simple ingredients at home – garlic, ginger, soy sauce, fish sauce, cider vinegar and a spoonful of sugar – can turn a tin of tuna or a few eggs into economical and joyful meals. Throw in a crop of perky herbs and refreshing vegetables for goodness and balance to every meal. By adding sweet, sour, savoury flavours to dishes you cook means most of the work is done to fulfil mealtime needs and it doesn’t have to cost lots of money and take a great deal of time.
I love using cheaper but flavoursome cuts such as free-range chicken wings or the humble and sustainable mackerel with an array of seasonal vegetables and tofu at home. They make fantastic weeknight meals as well as weekend feasts – the secret is in the combination of kitchen essential ingredients and a touch of freshness to each serving. Don’t be afraid to substitute ingredients and use what is available. If you don’t have marmalade, use sugar, if you don’t have a lime, use vinegar and so on. Look at the back of your fridge and cupboard and use up the preserves as marinades.
The best meals are always the most simple ones like these, because they are balanced and colourful, especially when you are hungry.
Soy chicken wings and spring onion noodles
The sweet and savoury flavours of the chicken wings marinade are gorgeous and irresistible. The noodles are tossed in the pan juices. It is a joyful sharing dish, great for all ages.
Serves 4
For the chicken wings
dried chilli flakes 1 tbsp, hotness of your choice (optional)
ginger 30g (2.5cm piece), finely chopped
soy sauce 6 tbsp
butter 1 tbsp
marmalade 3 tbsp
free-range chicken wings 900g
round shallots 4 small, peeled and halved
lime 1, zested, then sliced into rings
For the noodles
medium egg noodles 4 nests
butter 1 tbsp
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
shallot 1, peeled and sliced
garlic 2 cloves, peeled and sliced
spring onions 4, sliced, white and green parts separated
green leaves 300g, stalks removed, sliced into 1cm strips
fresh red chilli 1
Preheat the oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7. In a small bowl, mix together the dried chilli flakes, if using, with the ginger and soy sauce. Melt the butter with the marmalade in a small pan (use a fork to mash), then add this to the chilli, ginger and soy sauce.
Put the chicken wings in a roasting pan large enough not to crowd them (they should have a two-finger-width space between them). With a pastry brush, coat the wings with the marmalade marinade. Add the shallot halves, then arrange the lime slices in between the wings.
Roast for 30 minutes, basting halfway through with the juices that have collected in the tray. Cook for a further 7-10 minutes, then remove from the oven and place the wings on a serving platter. Discard the lime pieces and set aside the tray with its juices.
Cook the noodles on the hob according to packet instructions (this can be done while the wings are in the oven). Rinse in running lukewarm water and drain well in a colander, then place the noodles in the roasting tray with the juices. Toss well together until all the strands are coated with the roasting juices.
Heat the butter and vegetable oil in a wok or large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the sliced shallots until golden. Add the garlic and the white parts of the spring onions, stirring to keep them from burning, then add the sliced green leaves. Stir-fry for about 3 minutes, until the leaves are wilted. Turn the heat up to medium-high, then add the noodles from the roasting tin, and quickly and thoroughly toss together for 3 minutes.
Serve the noodles on a platter to share. Sprinkle the green parts of spring onions over the chicken wings with the fresh red chillies.
Caramelised mackerel in coconut water
Vietnamese families usually eat a one-pot fish dish – braised in coconut water – at least once a week. The flavour gets better the next day. Coconut water is commonly used in Vietnamese cooking to add sweetness and a depth of flavour to recipes.
You need to cook the fish for at least 40 minutes, but once started you can continue cooking it in the oven. If I’m doing that, I’ll cook baked potatoes at the same time so I make two meals in one, to maximise usage of the oven and save on energy costs.
The longer you cook the fish, the softer and more succulent it will be, with all the lovely flavours seeping into the flesh. In Vietnamese cooking, it is common to make this a little saltier, so that you eat small amounts at a time with lots of rice and vegetables.
Serves 4
caster sugar 2 tbsp
round shallots 2, peeled and sliced
vegetable oil 2 tbsp
fresh mackerel 2 (about 650g in total), cut into 2cm steaks, with or without head, bone in
coconut water 100ml
fish sauce 2 tbsp
black pepper 1 tsp
spring onion 1, sliced thinly lengthways
To serve
steamed jasmine rice 300g (see recipe, page 33)
pak choi 500g, sliced in half
cucumber ½, sliced into rings
cherry tomatoes 250g, halved
On a medium-low heat, in a medium saucepan that will snugly fit the fish steaks, sprinkle in the sugar. Watch over it until it turns a golden colour, then add the sliced shallots and vegetable oil. Give it a stir and wait a minute for the shallots to caramelise, then add the mackerel steaks and let them sit for a about 4 minutes to brown and caramelise. Using a spoon, gently turn the steaks over on to the other sides and let them sit for 3-4 minutes.
If you have them, for extra flavour, place the heads anywhere on top, then pour over the coconut water. Cook on a low simmer with the lid on, or in the oven in an oven-proof casserole dish with a lid on at 180C fan/gas mark 6, for 30 minutes, then add the fish sauce and black pepper. Cook for a further 10 minutes (or longer if you want to reduce the sauce to a thick caramel, but take the lid off, then cook until your liking).
Meanwhile, cook the steamed jasmine rice (see page 33) and blanch the pak choi.
To serve, garnish with the spring onion and enjoy with the jasmine rice, pak choi, cucumber slices and cherry tomatoes.
Banh mi with omelette and peas
My favourite banh mi filling is omelette. The soft and velvety textures contrast with the refreshing crunchy herbs and vegetables, and pair with the smoothness of avocado. I feel healthy and invigorated after this veggie feast.
The baguettes should be as fresh as possible, the outer crust crispy, the insides fluffy. It shatters and cracks when you press into it and bite it, creating that beautiful noisy baguette crunch. Usually, the inner dough is removed to serve the perfect balance of texture – it is up to you if you wish to do this. I usually spread lots of butter on the removed fluffy middles and enjoy them on the side or use them to make a bread pudding.
Serves 4
For the pickles
carrot 200g, julienned or grated lengthways
cider vinegar 2 tbsp
caster sugar 1 tbsp
For the baguette and fillings
baguettes 2
butter 25g
avocado 1, sliced into thin lengths
watercress 80g
coriander 30g
cucumber ½, cut into thin batons 10cm x 1cm
red chillies 2, sliced at a diagonal
For the omelette
eggs 6, beaten
spring onions 2, sliced
sea salt a pinch
freshly ground black pepper a pinch
caster sugar 1 tsp
light soy sauce 50ml
butter 25g
round shallots 2 (about 40g), finely chopped
peas 100g
In a bowl, place the julienned carrot, cider vinegar and sugar. Mix well and set aside.
Cut the baguettes in half and make a slit down the middle on one side with a serrated knife. Open them up like a book and butter the insides. Fill the baguettes with the avocado, watercress, coriander, cucumber and red chillies.
Beat the eggs with the spring onions, salt, pepper, sugar and soy sauce. Heat a 20cm frying pan over a medium heat, add half the butter and brown half the shallots, then add half the peas, cook for a minute then pour over half the egg mixture. Use a spatula to lift the egg, swivel the pan so that the raw mixture can run underneath. Once you feel the bottom has browned, turn it over. This should take no longer than a few minutes. Remove from the heat. Repeat with the other half. When done, cut into strips as wide as the width of the baguette.
Divide the omelette equally between the two baguettes and fill them with the pickled carrot. Serve immediately.
Rice porridge with summer vegetables
Vietnamese rice porridge soups use half the amount of rice grains and serve double the people. It is a really soothing, comforting and delicious favourite. It’s great to serve with seasonal vegetables – like rice, it can be enjoyed with many leftovers. It is also very common to enjoy such a gentle and easing soup when you’re feeling poorly with its healing ginger properties.
Serves 4
For the fried shallots
neutral cooking oil 1½ tbsp
round shallots 3 small, peeled and sliced
For the rice porridge
jasmine rice 150g
boiling water 1 litre (or homemade vegetable stock)
sea salt ½ tbsp
caster sugar ½ tsp
stock cubes 2 (whether or not you are using water or vegetable stock)
ginger 30g, peeled, finely chopped
carrot 1 large, cut into 1cm cubes
courgette 1, sliced, then quartered
runner beans 100g, thinly sliced at a diagonal
peas 100g
soy sauce 1 tbsp (or fish sauce)
black pepper ¼ tsp
spring onions 2, sliced
coriander 30g, stalks and leaves roughly chopped
soft-boiled eggs 4, peeled
lime juice of ½
To make the fried shallots, place a small frying pan on a gentle heat, add neutral cooking oil and the shallots and cook until golden and crispy.
Wash the rice grains in a large saucepan by running your hands through it and rinse it three times. Pour the boiling water (or stock) into the saucepan and season with the salt, sugar, stock cubes and ginger. Bring to a boil then turn to low heat, skimming off any foam and stirring occasionally to stop the bottom from catching for about 15 minutes, then add the cubed carrot.
Cover the pot with a lid and bring to the boil, simmer for a further 10 minutes, then add the courgette, runner beans and peas. By this stage, the rice grains should be blossoming and the broth thickened. Season with soy sauce (or fish sauce) and ground black pepper. Cook and stir for 5 more minutes, then add the spring onions and half of the coriander.
To serve, ladle into individual soup bowls with the halves of soft boiled egg, a further garnishing of coriander, black pepper and a squeeze of lime.
Tofu and tomato rice bowl
This typical much-loved Vietnamese dish uses the great flavours of a good Italian tomato sauce. If you can’t get Thai basil, coriander is fine too, or even just spring onions. It is also great with noodles. I’ve added spinach but you can use broccoli, courgette or even watercress. Tofu is the hero here, try to get medium-firm – or use silken tofu if you are gentle. Use a very good non-stick pan.
Serves 4
For the tofu
vegetable oil 3 tbsp
sea salt a pinch
fresh medium-firm tofu 600g, patted dry, cut into 1cm squares
For the vegetables
cider vinegar 1½ tbsp
soy sauce 1½ tbsp
sugar 1 tbsp
butter 25g
round shallots 2, finely chopped
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
baby plum tomatoes 325g, halved
baby spinach 250g
spring onions 4, sliced into thin strips lengthways
Thai basil 4 sprigs
To serve
steamed jasmine rice 300g (see recipe, page 33)
Heat a large frying pan on a medium heat, add half the oil, sprinkle a pinch of salt over the surface of the pan, then fry half the tofu for about 8 minutes on each side or until golden. Remove from the heat and place the tofu on paper towels to soak off any excess oil. Repeat with the rest of the tofu.
In the meantime, cook the rice (see page 33).
In a small bowl, add the cider vinegar, soy sauce and sugar, and mix together.
In the same frying pan with the residue oil from frying the tofu, add the butter and place over a medium heat. Brown the shallots, then add the garlic and fry until golden. Add the tomatoes, keep them still for a couple of minutes to sear, then gently turn and quickly stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Pour over the vinegar-soy seasoning mix, then throw in the tofu and carefully combine. Add the spinach, gently folding it in and stir for another 2-3 minutes until it has wilted.
Garnish with the spring onions and Thai basil leaves, and serve with the steamed rice.
Tinned tuna and shallot rice bowl with fried egg, pickles and greens
I always have eggs and I always have tinned tuna in the cupboard, in case of emergencies. This dish is easily doable with a few vegetables from the fridge. Small round shallots contain so much flavour and add sweetness, umami and depth to the tuna – although they are small, they pack much more punch than regular onions and do not crowd the pan.
I like to use the tasty sunflower oil from the tins of tuna to start cooking the shallots in. Decorating the bowl with nicely sliced vegetables tossed in garlic butter has everyone polishing off everything in haste. The pickles provide a perfect tartness and crunch to balance. And I do believe that a fried egg on top makes everything even better than it already is.
Serves 4
For the pickles
carrot 200g, julienned or grated lengthways
daikon 200g, julienned or grated lengthways
cider vinegar 2 tbsp
caster sugar 1 tbsp
For the vegetables
tenderstem broccoli 200g
carrot 1, thinly sliced into rounds
courgette 1, cut into batons
runner beans 180g, sliced into bite-sized diagonals
butter 10g
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
cucumber ½, sliced into thin rounds or batons
For the tuna and eggs
steamed jasmine rice 300g (see recipe, right)
tuna in sunflower oil 3 x 145g tins
round shallots 2, finely sliced
spring onions 2, sliced, green and white parts separated
light soy sauce 50ml
caster sugar ½ tsp
black pepper ½ tsp
vegetable oil 1½ tbsp
free-range eggs 4
In a bowl, add the julienned carrot, daikon, cider vinegar and sugar. Mix well and set aside.
Cook the steamed jasmine rice (see right).
In a large pan, add the tenderstem broccoli, sliced carrot, courgette and runner beans. Pour over boiling water from the kettle and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander. Using the same pan, add the butter and garlic, and cook on a medium-low heat until the garlic starts to turn golden, then add the vegetables back in and toss together. Slice the cucumber and set aside.
Drain the sunflower oil from the tins of tuna into a large frying pan. Place on a medium heat and fry the shallots. Once they are golden, throw in the white parts of the spring onions. Fry for 2 minutes, then add the tuna, stir-fry together with the light soy sauce, caster sugar, freshly ground black pepper and the green parts of the spring onions for 3 minutes.
Assemble the bowls with the steamed rice, cooked vegetables, cucumber slices, pickles and stir-fried tuna with shallots.
Using the same frying pan, add the 1½ tablespoons of vegetable oil and fry the eggs to your liking, then place on top of the rice bowls.
Serve immediately.
Steamed jasmine rice
The aim is to get fluffy, cooked-just-right rice that isn’t sticking together in clumps. It shouldn’t be too soft or wet, or hard and uncooked. It is perfectly cooked when the grains still maintain their structure and have a perfect bite with a lovely mild nutty and floral rice flavour.
Serves 4
jasmine rice 300g
water 500ml
Wash the rice in its cooking pot, using your hands to run through the grains and slightly massage them to release the starch. Drain the starchy water from the pot using the palm of your hands to stop the grains from falling (or use a sieve). Repeat 2 more times.
Cook the rice in a simple rice cooker with the 500ml of water. When the rice is done, fluff it up with a wooden or plastic paddle by mixing and turning around all the rice in the cooker, then leave to rest and fluff up for a further 5-10 minutes.
If you don’t have a rice cooker, put the rice in a saucepan with the 500ml of water on a medium-low heat with the lid on. When all the water has been absorbed (this takes about 10 minutes), turn the heat to low and cook with the lid securely on for a further 15-18 minutes. Then turn off the heat without removing the lid and let it rest for 5-10 minutes (you will often get a crisp or burnt bottom this way which can still be enjoyed). Fluff up the rice with a rice paddle or wooden spoon.
Uyen Luu is a cookery writer and author of Vietnamese: Simple Vietnamese Food to Cook at Home (Hardie Grant, £22)
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